How to save a photo FILE, not a THUMBNAIL...

If your submitted photos are labeled by me as "too small", but you feel you followed instructions on searching/finding the proper image size... it could be you are saving the THUMBNAIL of that image and not the full file.

Let's find out.

1. Are you doing a google search? with proper Size search parameters? If yes, then good. If no, then follow the instructions in the previous blogpost.

2. When a page of images comes up and you see the one you like... DON'T just right-click on it and save it.

 If you do so, you're just saving the THUMBNAIL for that image, which is teeny.

3.Instead, CLICK (or double-click, if you're trigger-happy) on the image that you want. It will open up in a box like this first:

...and then click on the "View Image" button. That will open up the full/real file on a new page, like this:

...and THEN, you can right-click, and save to your folder. Voila! Solved. 

Off-the-Register: PHOTO/IMAGE SEARCH

DUE by MONDAY, DECEMBER 4th... 9 (end of day)

THREE PHOTO IMAGE OPTIONS 

for the 

"Off-the-Register" PROJECT

Here are the instructions/requirements etc as found in class: 

(PDF links of these instructions are at the bottom of the blogpost as well)

PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGES for the

“OFF THE REGISTER” PROJECT:

what:

Can be virtually anything, as long as it is:

·        appropriate subject matter

·        not a copyrighted image (has a big copyright or X through it, meaning it’s meant to be purchased)

·        a digital file (jpeg) image that can be worked with in Photoshop

·        an image that will work when filtered into black and white or “shades” of gray

·        NOT an animation/cartoon etc… must be a PHOTO

·        a large enough file (so that there are enough pixels to work with when filtering/manipulating)

WHERE TO GET THEM:

Can be photos that you took yourself, OR photos you find online, etc

HoW TO GET FILES OF THE RIGHT SIZE:

In a Google images search…

·        Click on “Search Tools”, then under “Any Size”, select Large or Medium. (but the larger, the better! Large is best)

·        You can also select “Larger than…” and 800x600, MINIMUM… anything smaller won’t filter well!!

SavE FILES AS JPEGS*, (*in your student folder!) THEN EMAIL ... :

*make sure you save the actual file/photo, NOT the thumbnail! (find tips on the next blog post!)

For points and for approval (on subject matter and file size)…

           

·      email to jdoezie@ausd.net

·        in the SUBJECT LINE, put your name and period number

·        ATTACH your THREE images, as jpegs (DON’T copy-paste, DON’T send them copied into a Word/Google doc…!!)

·        CC yourself on the email (if your email doesn’t automatically save sent messages), so you have the images as well!

EMAILED FILES ARE DUE BY MONDAY DECEMBER 4TH

CLASSROOM COMPUTERS MAY BE USED TO SEARCH FOR IMAGES

TWO DAYS ONLY( (((Dec 1 and 4)

after that, you will need to find your images OUTSIDE OF CLASS

Once you have sent in your images and they are approved by me (I will send you a return email with approval/suggestions etc.), FILTER THEM IN PHOTOSHOP to prepare your image to be screen printed!

You will only need ONE filtered image for the project, but you can test out different filters with one or all of the three photos you send to me—maybe only one will work like you want it to, or perhaps you’ll find a bunch of good options that you’ll need to choose from… but with three approved photos, you’ll have plenty to work with! J

you can also access the PDFs HERE

ADDITIONAL TIPS/INSTRUCTIONS are in the next post-- in terms of how to properly save full FILES, not THUMBNAILS-! (a common error :)

ahhAHH! Shirt Printing!

Did you love Monday's shirt printing demo? (of course) 

Do you love the design of the shirt? (*)

Can you make a peacock sound? (hopefully)

And... would you like to be in the running for the demo shirt ??

 (printed masterfully by yours truly)

then... on Friday (12/1), come and get a shirt lottery ticket from me (really just a small blank piece of paper), walk away and write your name and period number on it, clear your throat, then walk back up to me and give me your best peacock cry as you hand me the paper. And I'll put you in the running. :) (to be awarded on MONDAY to the lucky winner!!!)

*big thanks to BELLE ZHENG, class of 2015, for her extraordinary design! 
I didn't really ask her if I could use it again this year, but I think she'll be okay with it :)

* * * * * *

YAY SHIRTS!

FINAL WEEKS of FIRST SEMESTER-- Schedule, calendar, and assignment/point info!

You got this in class today! But in case you lose it*, or are hanging out at the mall and suddenly freak out because you don't know what the last day is to turn in your shirt, and you don't happen to have the calendar with you (why would you??), here it is!!

...and, because I know this might be hard to read in jpeg form, and also because you might have lost* your hard copy and need a new one, and because I'm nice, HERE IT IS (CLICK HERE!) in PDF FORM

 (*DON'T LOSE IT! you'll need to record your print days on it, plan your work on it, and turn it in to me later, for points!)

PLEEEEEEEEASE follow the calendar! Plan your time! Don't leave ANYTHING until the last day! No shirts will be printed late (the last day of printing is the last day of printing--12/14), but they could be turned in late! But they shouldn't be! DO YOUR BEST AND DON'T PROCRASTINATE!

Also-- remember that you're going to be presenting your shirt to the class! Which is awesome. Make it something  you're proud to show! :)

T-Shirt Factory Outlet directions... also T-shirt selection (in general) directions!

Wondering where to buy shirts? Here's a good suggestion....

T-Shirt Factory Outlet on Google Maps

or, Target. Or Michael's. Or, hey-- the mall. :)

BUT-- your shirt does not have to be new... that's up to you! and long-sleeved, short-sleeved, tank top... also up to you. I don't recommend "ribbed" tank tops however.

Sweatshirts are tougher to print on but doable. Let me know if that's your choice so I can help you!

If you print on fabric that is 50% or more polyester, it may affect the ultimate color of your printed ink. SEE ME if your shirt/sweatshirt is 50/50 cotton/polyester so I can give you some tips!

how to RECLAIM a photo-emulsion screen...

We will spend two class periods learning how to reclaim, because of 1) attention spans; 2) so as not to take up your whole period with a demonstration; and 3) I like to talk :) and explain things fully.

BUT-- when you reclaim YOUR screen, the whole process will probably take you about ten minutes,  once you get it down! :) (as long as you don't have to wait in line for the sinks or table or sprayer etc.)

So, how 'bout you review what you're supposed to do, by reading this blogpost! It'll help.


Here is an abbreviated version of the demo/the instructions...

*First and foremost-- you don't reclaim until the screen is CLEAN (you've cleaned the ink off of it, with water if it's water-based ink, and Bean-E-Doo if it's oil-based), and ... you are FINISHED PRINTING with the stencils on it!

STEP ONE: REMOVE THE EMULSION/STENCIL


Starting with a CLEAN screen...

get screen wet on both sides

--WITH THE SCREEN STILL IN THE SINK (nowhere else!!) spray a good coating of ER (emulsion remover) on both sides

set the screen on either side/counter of the large sink-- print-side up, and flat--
and allow the ER to soak in for a minimum of 4 minutes

After at least 4 minutes, when you are ready to spray out the emulsion, put your screen back in the sink and
turn on the high-pressure sprayer (found under the little sink). Oh, and
SHUT THE DOOR-- the machine is loud (use earplugs if it bothers you!!)

T-Shirt Inspiration! (extra credit opportunity!)

Want to earn (up to) 10 extra credit points? 

this is my t-shirt drawer. Well, one of them. The left side is shirts I've printed, the right side is shirts I've bought

As you learn about t-shirt screen printing techniques in this class, you will start to look at graphic tees differently-- you'll understand how they were made, you'll recognize difficult techniques and registrations, you'll wonder how unique prints were accomplished, and you'll see things you want to emulate (in part! - as in, be INSPIRED. Always create your own original designs to be proud of!)

So... 

THE ASSIGNMENT: (read this whole blogpost for instructions!)

LOOK at the t-shirts that are out there! In stores, that your friends (or strangers! :) are wearing, etc... and notice the ones that you like, that stand out to you. 

FIND four great shirts-- AS IN, graphic tees that are screen printed-- not just a random flannel plaid shirt or something-- 

PHOTOGRAPH them, and  

WRITE a sentence or two for each, of why they are great/why you chose them! 

NOTE: 

the shirts you find/photograph cannot be from your closet. That doesn't inspire you, you already own those shirts! They also cannot be items you find online. Too easy! Again, look in stores, what people around town are wearing, etc. 

ALSO, these four awesome t-shirt examples must fit into the following four categories (you will be finding and photographing one for each category):

1. GREAT SUBJECT MATTER (maybe it's a funny saying, something cool you're into, etc)

Font Conference

...Remember when we watched "Font Fight", in our introduction to Typography? (it was one month ago, today...)

Well, hahaha .... here's another great one!



FOR 3 POINTS EXTRA CREDIT* .... Translate the following:

Pencil telephone hourglass. Diamonds candle candle flag!!! -Mailbox. Mailbox! MAILBOX!!

...

*This is for the "Wanna Earn Some Extra Credit Makeup Points for the October 27th Quiz?" google classroom option! If you are looking at this blog before you check Classroom... make sure you go to Classroom to submit your answer! THIS HAS A DEADLINE...

SUBMIT your translation in the "private comment" section of the Classroom assignment! 

HOW TO CLEAN OIL-BASED INK-- from squeegees, screens, platens, and clothing

By today, everyone has learned the all-important skill of how to clean squeegees of oil-based ink... and I say important not only because you can't print if you can't clean (obvi), but because it's different than water-based ink, as OIL AND WATER DON'T MIX. It's not as simple as rinsing a water-based squeegee of ink. With... water.

Instead-- you've learned how to make oil-based ink WATER-SOLUBLE-- which means "able to be dissolved in water"-- so that it will rinse off your squeegee. As long as you know how to clean squeegees of oil-based ink, you're ready to print with oil-based ink.

You've also been shown which soap to use to remove ink from your skin. Soon, in the (very)-near future, you'll learn:

* how to clean screens of oil-based ink (really it's the same thing, you just have to remove the tape!)

* how to make sparkly-clean platens (yup... it's your job to clean dirty platens! --of ink, of pencil marks, of adhesive buildup, of t-shirt fuzz...)

* what to do if ink gets on your clothes/project. Unwanted ink, I mean.

IN THE MEANTIME, HERE'S ALL THAT INFO! As in, Here are the abbreviated steps of cleaning, plus photos...! Including stuff I haven't taught yet, so that Future You can look back on this post for review. Or so that any overachiever can look at/learn all this ahead of time. (I applaud you!)

oil-based ink is messy. It doesn't dry with natural air temperatures, so it gets everywhere. Blehhh

(*Please remember that I don't expect you to memorize the steps for cleaning; there are posters on the wall in the classroom and clean-up room, to help you when you're cleaning. (And, there's me.). BUT-- it's very helpful to UNDERSTAND it all! Reading all this can't hurt!)

(This is the instruction poster that's on the wall in the Clean Up room. You can look at it 

more closely--or even print out, if you want (?)--by opening a PDF file HERE )

 STEP ONE: put unused clean ink back in tub 

(and scrape off/throw away dirty ink)

are you using this blog to prep for Friday's quiz?

...If so, congrats! The following information will help you to answer an extra-credit question:

A gallon of emulsion costs $77.25

good luck! :)

Also:

You may use two papers DURING the quiz, to help you figure out the answers:

1. the burning demo worksheet (handed back Thursday)
2. your First Print Practice handout

...If you don't have one or both of those, and/or you want more info to help you understand concepts-- here are items that will help you study! The (correct answers to burning demo questions,) and the previous blogposts on burning (part ONE, part TWO, part THREE (incl. how to prep a burned screen)), the posts on printing (part ONE, and part TWO which includes how to clean) and you'll be just fine.

PRINTING WITH OIL-BASED INK-- demo review, practice assignment, and how to print light onto dark!

In yesterday's 20-minute OIL-BASED INK demo, you learned some of the differences between oil-based and water-based ink, the main one being that oil-based ink requires HEAT to dry/cure fully, which affects a lot of different things:

* printing 

* clean-up 

* classroom cleanliness!

etc etc etc etc etc

Things I mentioned during the demo (and which were listed on the board)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PRINTING ON A T-SHIRT REQUIRES:

1. Specific layouts when burning a screen (where you expose the stencils)

2. Different registration steps

3. Special techniques when printing LIGHT ink onto DARK fabric, including use of the "FLASH DRYER" (!) (so exciting!! :)

4. Different CLEANING steps-- NO OIL SQUEEGEES IN THE SINK! etc etc etc etc etc 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

,,, #s 1, 2, and 4 are things we'll discuss/learn another day.

TODAY, I showed you #3-- what YOU will do to PRACTICE printing with oil-based ink, on t-shirt fabric. Actually, a piece of a "test square", which is basically fake fabric that printing companies use for their t-shirt test prints... but it's similar to fabric. Mostly.

Anywayyyy....

 info, review, and highlights...

1. You will practice printing oil-based ink with your LARGE VELLUM stencil. By that, I mean the stencil on your screen that was created from the large vellum positive of your sticker design. Mask off EVERYTHING on your screen (on the squeegee-side!) except for the Large Vellum stencil. TRUST ME! This will enable you to print two stencils, with different inks, without having to clean your screen in-between. Oil-based ink doesn't dry out--  you can leave ink on your screen and clean it another day-- and if you mask-it off correctly, you can print different colors without having to clean in-between! You'll see :). (I'll demonstrate this as prep before you do 'foil transfer printing')

a screen fully masked-off to print one stencil and keep the rest of the screen "clean"

2. Oil-based ink squeegees have a softer blade than the ones we use for water-based ink. You can identify them by their color: dark blue for water-based, and yellow (or sometimes green) for oil-based. DON'T MIX THEM UP!

for now, or any time when some students are working with water-based ink, make sure you are using the correct one! 

3. Oil-based ink is easier to work with because it doesn't dry naturally, but a massive pain because of this, too-- because if it gets on a surface, it STAYS WET and will transfer onto another surface if touched-- like your hands, your substrate, and even your clothes. I'll show you how to (hopefully) get unwanted ink out of clothes/fabric substrates later, but if it gets on your skin while printing, etc, USE THE POWDERED SOAP IN THE SILVER DISPENSER. It's fantastic. It's called Boraxo, and gets most ink off of your skin, but especially oil-based (which isn't really affected by normal, liquid soap)

4.  Oil-based ink is thicker than water-based. Some are extremely thick (depends on the color). You will use a craft stick to SCOOP out the ink from the tubs and put it on the screen (whereas you poured out the water-based ink, from jars, using the stick to help guide the ink).

5. You will first practice oil-based ink by printing three different ways on a piece of t-shirt "fabric". Instructions are up on the board, but the gyst of it is this:

FIRST PRINT (left, on the above example):
Just one pull. Dry the ink in the conveyor dryer. The ink won't be completely opaque (if printing on a light substrate), and may look slightly faded (if printing on a dark substrate). This is because, when using oil-based ink, the first pull does not (usually) release all the ink from the stencil. It can be a desired, 'distressed'/worn look, but generally, you always want to make TWO strong pulls. So:

SECOND PRINT (middle, on the above example):

Make two strong pulls. (Remember-- NO BACK-FLOODING!) This will release all the ink from the stencil and make the ink more opaque than before. If you need to make a third pull, do so. Dry the ink in the conveyor dryer.

THIRD PRINT (right, on the above example):

Make two/three strong pulls, flash-dry, THEN print another layer, then put the whole thing through the conveyor dryer..

WHY??

If  you're printing light ink on a darker fabric, the ink won't be opaque/true to color unless you flash-dry between layers. This is because the ink will just keep soaking through the fabric, it won't build up/get thick/be opaque (unless you're not printing correctly and the ink prints too thickly.

If, however, you FLASH-DRY after your first (two) pulls, this surface-dries the ink so that the next pull/layer will sit on TOP of that ink, and give it the desired opacity.

some inks are naturally more opaque than others, and you might not want/need to flash-dry
between layers when printing your project(s)

FLASH-DRYING is easy-- just requires placing the flash-dryer over your substrate, on the platen, for 30 seconds or so, until the ink is dry to the (careful) touch.

the DIFFICULTY comes in printing the next layer, after flash-drying...

you have to CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE SCREEN LINES UP WITH THE PRINTED INK, before you pull another print! If it doesn't line up PERFECTLY, in all areas of the stencil, you will end up printing a DOUBLE-IMAGE. Which very, very rarely actually looks good.

HOW DO YOU PREVENT THIS?

*1. make sure nothing moves, BEFORE you start printing: the screen should be tight, the platen tight, and the fabric substrate WELL-ADHERED with the red platen adhesive

*2. After flash-drying the first layer, CHECK to make sure the stencil lines up with the print, by lowering the screen and carefully pushing on the screen (like when you check the off-contact), to see if it lines up. Check ALL areas of the stencil.

*3. IF IT DOESN'T LINE UP PERFECTLY... figure out what moved. If it was the screen or platen, you can probably move it back into place. 

*4. IF IT DOESN'T LINE UP PERFECTLY BECAUSE THE SUBSTRATE MOVED... Game over. Just have a less-opaque print, it'll be fine. DON'T PRINT THE NEXT LAYER IF IT DOESN'T LINE UP! *ALSO*-- get Miss Doezie for help before you give up, OR if you are unsure if it's lining up correctly.

*******************

AFTER YOU HAVE PRINTED,  CLEAN YOUR SQUEEGEE 

(cleaning instructions will be given a different day, before anyone starts printing. But if you're from the future and looking back, read on!)

**************************************

Follow instructions given for cleaning (more detailed instructions are found HERE)

You MUST clean your squeegee the same period you use it, so it's available for the next student's use.

You do NOT have to clean your screen right away, as the oil-based ink won't dry, BUT-- you DO need to scrape off the excess/usable ink and put it back in the tub (so it doesn't get gunky from the dust in the air)

And, for this practice exercise, DON'T clean your screen until you've printed the Foil Transfer as well... so that you can practice color-switching without cleaning.

REMINDERS...

Bean-E-Doo makes oil-based ink water-soluble

instructions for cleaning are on the walls of the classroom and the sink room

FOLLOW ALL POSTED SIGNS!!! 

Friday Treat Challenge!!

Want one of these??

Then, as a follow-up to the Wednesday College Shirt Day discussion...

 be one of the first TEN* to properly identify at least THREE of these five famous people who attended Miss Doezie's university! (BYU) 

Answer what it asks below... Write answers down on a piece of scratch paper! GOOD LUCK!!

*if only five people come up, you'll split the ten cookies! :) so... DON'T TELL ANYONE ELSE ABOUT IT! Either they read the board, or they didn't! And don't tell other classes!! 

#1

(the actor's name, and the name of this character!)

#2

(the name and which political party!)

#3

(the athlete and the name of the football team!)

#4

(the author of the series and how many books in the series!)

#5

(the actor's name, and the name of this movie!)

TYPO-GRAPHIC TEE - rough draft worksheet

...You got this rough draft sheet today. I'll (probably) (maybe) be posting more about the design guidelines, but if you LOST the handout,

HERE IT IS

(in PDF format, as usual, so that you can print it out for yourself.  -NOT in class, though)

DON'T START DRAWING ON THE T-SHIRTS (on the handout) RIGHT AWAY!

First, BRAINSTORM IDEAS. Read through the guidelines and decide what direction you want to go it (typographic illustration, or a design made up of type and graphics, etc)

Then, decide which idea you want to go with. Now, read more of the instructions :) (like, your choices for # of ink colors, maximum size of stencils, etc), and sketch it as a little rough draft onto the shirt outlines of the handout. 

* remember that just because the blank tshirt is short-sleeved doesn't mean yours has to be! Could be long sleeve, tank top, sweatshirt, etc

* you don't need to have an extremely detailed drawing, nor should it be so simple or rapidly drawn that I can't tell what it is... because

the purpose of this handout is so that I can SEE what you want to create, so your concept/creation can be APPROVED before you move onto making the artwork!

* also remember: your artwork for this tshirt design can be drawn by hand, created on software, or both (again... read your handout! :)

Printing Basics Part Two: "First Print Practice", and How to Clean Water-Based Ink

* your first printing assignment is to: 
[PRACTICE PRINTING your STICKER (rubylith) STENCIL with WATER-BASED INK]

* Today, you received a handout to help you with your first print practice:

First Print Practice (Handout) - 2 pages
(if you lose your handout, you can print a new one from this pdf)
(you will need your handout in order to receive points, by the way! -earning up to 25 points for successful first prints! 10 points for printing, 10 for cleaning, and 5 for properly using/filling out the handout...)

and the steps for this exercise were demonstrated last friday, including how to clean!
Because BEFORE you can print with water-based ink, you must first know:

*  *  * 

how to clean your screen and squeegee 

of water-based ink

*  *  *   

Water-based ink has its pros and cons... one of the pros is that it's much easier to clean than oil-based ink; it rinses off the screen with just water, whereas you have to scrub a cleaning solvent into oil-based ink before it can be rinsed off.

Because this ink is water-based, though, it will dry in normal air temps... which means it has to be cleaned off right away, before it can dry on the screen or squeegee (at which point it's very difficult to remove and/or can damage or even ruin a screen).

YOU MUST ALWAYS GAUGE (calculate and plan for) THE AMOUNT OF TIME NEEDED FOR CLEANING

 In other words: before you start printing, make sure that you have enough time to fix any mistakes that may happen AND have sufficient clean-up time when you're done (which may be more than five minutes, especially if there's a line for the sinks...)

HOW TO CLEAN:

As soon as you've finished printing,

1. PUT NEWSPAPER ON PLATEN
 Immediately place a piece of NEWSPAPER (or blank newsprint, if we're out of newspaper) on the platen under the screen/stencil

2. SPRAY STENCIL WITH WATER MIX 
Spray the inky stencil with the blue WATER MIX (mix of glass cleaner and water, in a spray bottle). This keeps the ink in the stencil from drying out while you're doing the first cleaning steps

3. REMOVE EXCESS INK FROM SCREEN
 Put leftover, unused (uncontaminated-- not mixed with other colors, dried out, etc) ink back into the jar, using the INK CARDS. Scrape the ink from your squeegee blade into the jar using gravity; scoop up the ink from your screen with two cards, using two hands (as the ink can be kind of runny).

Removing excess ink from the screen and squeegee saves usable ink, AND makes cleanup easier.

4. CLEAN THE SQUEEGEE
Clean your squeegee in the little sink in the MAIN ROOM (not the sink room), using a rag. (If you just rinse it, it takes forever and wastes water; much faster to wipe with a rag). The rag will look gross but it's just stained :); if ink gets on your hands, just rinse or wash them off.

Make sure to wipe off all five sides of the squeegee blade! plus the handle of the squeegee if necessary.

Rinse and squeeze out the rag for the next person, and put the squeegee in a rack to air-dry. DO NOT DRY IT with paper towels!

5. REMOVE TAPE FROM SCREEN

Peel off the tape on the print and squeegee-sides, also the masked-off area. Ball up and throw away;

 NO SPIDERWEBBING the trashcans!!! 

(the cleanest and best way to do this is to "drop" the tape web onto a piece of newsprint so that it sticks to it; then use the newsprint to ball up around the tape, keeping your hands clean and the trash can from being taped shut!!)

6. CLEAN THE SCREEN

Put the screen in one of the large sinks and rinse off with water until there is no wet ink left. This should only take twenty seconds or so, maybe even less.

 TIP:  IF THERE IS A LINE FOR THE LARGE SINK/HOSE, after removing the excess ink and putting it back in the jar, SPRAY YOUR ENTIRE SCREEN WITH WATER MIX, TO KEEP THE REMAINING INK FROM DRYING OUT WHILE YOU WAIT...

If you see ink on the emulsion of your screen after rinsing it well, check to see if it's wet or not (if it comes off on your finger when you touch it); if it's dried and staining the emulsion, it will not affect your printing (and will come off later when you 'reclaim' the screen).

normal water-based ink staining after proper cleaning

If you see ink in the stencil, hold it up to the light... if the ink/color "disappears" with light shining through it, then it's just staining the mesh and won't affect your printing (and will come off during the reclaiming process, later).

no ink is blocking the stencil; therefore it has been cleaned/washed out properly

If the ink blocks the light, it needs to be scrubbed out so that it doesn't block the stencil for your next print. If there are areas that don't rinse off easily, HELP THEM OUT BY WIPING WITH A CLOTH RAG! And remember to rinse off the FRAME, as well... and the inside corners of the frame.. basically the whole screen!

if light can go through, ink can go through...
and if the light is blocked, ink won't go through when printing!

If there are areas that don't rinse off easily, HELP THEM OUT BY WIPING WITH A CLOTH RAG! And remember to rinse off the FRAME, as well... and the inside corners of the frame.. basically the whole screen!

6. PUT YOUR SCREEN IN A RACK TO DRY

if it's the end of the period and still dripping-wet, put it on a bottom rack space (move other screens up, as necessary) so it doesn't drip onto a dry screen. Otherwise, wait until it's partially dry before putting it in a rack. If you want to speed up the drying process so you can tape-off and mask-off for the next day, set it outside in the sun for a bit, or use the air compressor.

* * * * *

HELVETICA!!

.

it sounds like a cheer. Helvetica!!

Is it? Is it the greatest typeface ever? Well, if greatest is measured by most-used… Then, probably still not. I'm sure Times New Roman is used the most, at least in the western world. Also, if we're measuring Greatness by how often it's used, then Comic Sans and Papyrus would also be in the running, and you know how I feel about those horrors. And you're going to hear more.

Still, Helvetica is quite widely-used... "ubiquitous"...

and it has a rich history and inception…

The digital version of Helvetica that everyone knows and uses today is quite different from the typeface’s pre-digital design from 1957. Originally released as Neue Haas Grotesk, many of the features that made it a Modernist favorite have been lost in translation over the years from one typesetting technology to the next.

(source: click here)

hahahaha

… and though it's often confused with another SANS SERIF font, Arial, there are differences: 

I like to call Arial, "poor man's Helvetica". I don't know if that phrase even makes any sense, but it feels like it does. Maybe I heard it somewhere. Probably from a genius, because I say genius things.

I'm not the only person on Team Helvetica, though--

Water-Based Ink Printing Basics -- tools, terms, and techniques!

On the board for Friday's print demo...

APRON

NEWSPRINT

SUBSTRATE

CRAFT STICK

WATER-BASED INK

"INK-FREE ZONE"

PLATEN

PRINTING STATIONS/PRESS/HINGE

"OFF-CONTACT DISTANCE"

ARTWORK POSITIVE

REGISTRATION

REGISTRATION MARKS

SPRAY ADHESIVE

"HAIRSPRAY CLOUD"

SQUEEGEE/SQUEEGEE BLADE

"PULL A PRINT"

TEST PRINT

BACK-FLOOD

SUBSTRATE PRINT

CONVEYOR DRYER

NEWSPRINT

WATER MIX

INK CARD

NO SPIDERWEBBING!

These are basic screen printing terms. tools, practices, and skills you will need to know! They may be unfamiliar now, but they'll become part of your screen printing vernacular (vocabulary) quite quickly. (And if they remain unfamiliar to you... it's going to be difficult the whole year!)

If you missed today's demo, or feel like you didn't fully grasp it... no worries! The first time you print, you'll have someone helping you! Not to mention a very comprehensive instruction sheet to help you along the way... and, of course, ME! Then you'll help someone else to print, and that will help you to learn as well!

in the near future, there will be a simple quiz on burning, printing, and cleaning basics. You will have your burning demo worksheet (and the blog!) as a reminder for the burning terms and processes, and if