SINKROOM AND DARKROOM MINI-TOUR
You learned about the light switches etc that you'll use, and took a brief walk-through, so you could see where the magic happens, what the safelights look like, and see for yourself that the darkroom isn't covered with blood, it's drips of emulsion from when I fill the screens in there. Not blood. Not a murder scene.
STENCIL PLACEMENT
Your screen has 12x15 inches of usable space for stencils. All stencils must be (placed) at least TWO INCHES from the inside of the frame, or you won't be able to print successfully with them.
Some projects will dictate particular placement (organizing/layout) of where the stencils are within that usable space. IN GENERAL, though, when exposing, you want to place your positive so that it burns a stencil in the center of your screen. It should also be right-facing-- as in, not backwards. Face-up on the glass. As far as crooked or upside-down... no such thing when you're printing onto paper or sticker. Backwards, yes. That can be a problem. Unless it's required for a certain print technique. This is confusing I realize. It will all make sense with the printing demos!
BTW there is a little flashlight on the exposure table, which you can use to help you see the screen when you're in the darkroom.
EXPOSING
Make sure the door to the darkroom is closed while exposing a screen. HOWEVER, if someone comes inside and light comes in while they do, that's okay-- it's brief enough that it won't affect screens!
BUT MAKE SURE TO LEAVE CABINET DOORS CLOSED... the safelight is dim, yes, but unexposed emulsion will eventually be exposed by safelights as well, if the light shines on it long enough.
DEVELOPING
Make sure the MAIN LIGHT is off in the sink room before you bring your screen out to develop it!
Developing "stops" the exposure-- if you don't develop the emulsion with water, it will continue to expose if... exposed, to any light. When you develop, you wash out the unexposed areas of emulsion, to create a stencil.
Rubylith blocks the light the best, so those stencils will develop (wash out) the fastest.
Get the screen wet on both sides, and then LET IT SOAK for a bit!! It will make the developing/washing out the stencils sooooo much easier.
If you're using the hose and there is a line of students waiting to develop, stop spraying for a second and LET THEM GET THEIR SCREENS WET! If their screens are soaking while waiting, it will make everyone's turn with the water go faster.
Use the FLAT NOZZLE on the coiled hose, for the easiest developing experience. It works the best. TRUST ME.
If the burning process is too loud/hurts your ears, come get earplugs from me!
BLASTING OUT THE RESIDUE
I also gave you instruction today on how to USE the AIR COMPRESSOR... how to turn it on, etc.. (there are labels on the air compressor to remind you of the steps!)
notes/tips/etc:
If it's not already outside, roll it carefully outside using the back door
Usually, YOU will not use the back door to access the air compressor; only if it's raining!
You have to let it fill with some air pressure before you start to 'spray'
It's easier to hold up your screen while spraying, so that you can see the droplets of moisture
You only have to clear out the stencil (of moisture/residue), BUT, if you are in a hurry to dry your screen (at any time-- to dry a stencil/photo-emulsion, or dry a fully "reclaimed" screen), you can use the air compressor. DON'T USE PAPER TOWELS TO DRY A SCREEN!!
Yes.. the air/nozzle leaks a little. That's why you have to let it build up a bit of pressure before you start spraying :)
DO NOT LEAVE THE AIR COMPRESSOR RUNNING UNLESS YOU ARE USING IT! Don't walk away from it unless you have turned it OFF!
