Today you learned how to print a freezer-paper stencil, using water-based ink and sponge brushes. Here is a summary of that demo:
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| After you have cut along all the traced lines of your original artwork, on the freezer paper, |
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| you should have a subtractive stencil (pieces removed to create open areas for ink to go through). Show me this completed stencil to receive a piece of fabric to print on. |
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| The freezer paper has a plastic-coated side which will temporarily adhere to the fabric, so that it doesn't move or shift while inking (and keeps the ink from bleeding under the edges of the stencil) |
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| Place your stencil plastic (shiny)-side down on the fabric, and gently iron to heat the plastic so that it melts and sticks |
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| Clip your fabric with ironed stencil to a piece of cardboard. This gives you a stiff surface to print on (you can hold it in your hands), and the cardboard will retain any ink that seeps through the fabric (protecting desks/surfaces and your clothes) |
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| Select one or more colors to print with. You can mix colors too if you'd like, just ask me for a little plastic tray |
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Use a sponge brush to dab the ink into the stencil. Dip the brush directly
in the jar of ink to get a little on the tip. You barely need any ink; a little will go a long way; too much will get the stencil too wet and it will disintegrate before you're done, or bleed, or just be too thick |
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| Dab gently; don't stroke/rub or brush at it. Make sure you have a thin, even coverage, getting into all the corners of your stencil openings. If you see fabric, keep dabbing until it's covered |
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| If you're printing multiple colors, use a different sponge brush for each color. Take care that the colors don't mix in the jars |
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| If you are creating a blend, it's usually better to have the darker color on the bottom (the first layer/color you print). Dab the blended area last, so you don't have to dip the tainted brush back into a jar |
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When you're finished, peel off the stencil. Throw it away! It's a one-time use only (and not worth it, to keep)
Let it dry for at least a few minutes (depending on how thick your ink is); while you're waiting, put away the boards, clips, and ink, and rinse out your brush(es) ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE WALL! |
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Let the print dry overnight on the large drying rack, OR-- if it's "dry" after a few minutes (dry to the touch, and your ink was dabbed on nice and thin)--
Heat-set the ink: put a piece of newsprint under the fabric and another over it (protecting the print and the iron from ink), and iron for 15-30 seconds. Turn it over and iron the other side for another 15-30 seconds.
*The ink is water-based and will dry in normal air temperatures, but to be permanent, it must be heat-set. This is mainly necessary if you're printing a shirt that will be washed, but you can practice it on this mini-project |
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| Finished! You can fill out the evaluation and turn in as-is, or-- |
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| Ask for a piece of double-sided adhesive to turn it into a sticker... |
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| Trim the sticker with scissors, and turn in! (Don't stick it on anything until it's been graded!) |
(you'll be learning how make it into a sticker, also how to turn in the project, next week...)
The steps for "printing" (without images) are posted on the wall above the printing counter; be sure to follow them in order!
And remember-- this is just a mini-project. Much, much greater things are to come :)
